An American Girl in Paris (Part 2)
Le Shopping
Concept Stores // They’re crowded but worth a visit to find some unique and “only in Paris” finds. The classics are Merci and Colette – the later was one of my best Paris moments because I ran into Kate Betts! Both stores are beautiful and inspiring but very pricey. The one concept store you really can’t miss is Centre Commercial in Canal Saint Martin. It’s not as popular but that’s what makes it so much better. It was founded by the two owners of Veja who wanted a store that combined fashion with social responsibility. The result is worth the trip! I scored one of the coolest pair of sneakers that I will wear to death come fall.
Basics // For super soft T’s and the cutest under-things ever, check out Le Slip Francais in the Marais. They manage to make tighty-whities chic!
Vintage // I have a thing for vintage jewelry, especially from French houses like YSL, Chanel and Dior so you can imagine how excited I was to stumble upon 25 Janvier on my way to dinner. It’s a teeny-tiny spot that sells their own label (which is cute), but the real gem here is their insane vintage collection of jewelry and bags. Hermes, Chanel, and Celine is all you need to know.
Home // There are plenty of amazing interior design and furniture stores throughout the Marais, but how are you going to get that end table home!? That’s why my pick for the best shop-able home store in Paris has to be marcel by. They have beautiful, modern home accessories that are small enough to fit in your carry-on and just like me, they share an obsession for all things copper when it comes to interiors.
Stationary // My collection of notebooks, cards and pens continues to grow and I’m so proud to be able to add finds from Paper Tigre to my stash. This adorable store houses some of the coolest notebooks and stationary I’ve ever seen. This is not your mother’s paper store!
Perfume // I don’t do souvenirs. They’re tacky, cheap and seriously, where are you going to put your baguette magnet? So in lieu of souvenirs, I do perfume. It’s a truly special way to remember the city you were in. I knew doing this in Paris would be nearly impossible and I went into what seemed like fifty perfumeries trying to find the most perfect scent and I finally found it at Frederic Malle. They treat perfume shopping like an art and spend at least thirty minutes with each client (they only let in a few people at at time!) helping them find their signature scent. They also store each bottle in a temperature controlled room and only take them out once you have decided on your purchase. These Parisians take their perfume very seriously and if you’re serious about perfume, a visit to Monsier Malle is a must.
Let me start by saying that this place is not for everyone – even for girls that love to shop. Feel free to come to Paris and skip this entirely, because IMO nothing is more intimidating than tackling one of the largest and oldest markets in the world.
The two most important things you need to answer before you come here is …what am I looking for and am I willing to spend a good amount of money on it. Your answers will guide your path to what can ultimately be one of the most incredible shopping days of your life, but if you can’t answer these questions, save your time (and euros) and check out another neighborhood or spend the afternoon sipping a bottle of rose.
Before coming to the market, I spent almost two entire days planning my attack on this place and boy am I glad I did. It’s massive, it’s confusing and very intimidating for us Americans. To start, take an Uber. Yes, you can take subway, but it’s not easy to find once you leave the Metro station and many travelers complain of getting lost on the way there. Or worse, ending up in the crappy market that’s set up to trap all the tourists into thinking they’re in the real Puces.
There are fourteen markets that make up Les Marchés aux Puces, so be realistic and understand that trying to see all of them is like trying to see all of The Louvre, it’s not going to happen. Pick your markets based on your interests and limit it to one or two markets at most … three if you’re aggressive like me! The other thing you need to know is that the markets are not cheap. You can find some great deals on knick-knacks, but most things are very expensive even though this is technically a flea market.
For my first visit, the goal was to find vintage Baccarat bar ware and vintage jewelry so my trip took me to Marche Vernaison, Marche Paul Bert and Marche Serpette (in that order).
Marche Vernaison is the most “affordable” and most accessible of the three markets I visited. There are tons of quirky stalls like Tombees du Camion, great lighting porn, and beautiful shops devoted to vintage French linens but my reason for coming here was Au Grenier du Lucie. The shop offer a wide range of costume jewellery and other interesting fashion accessories for all tastes and budgets and is run by (English speaking!) Heidi and her husband Jason. Heidi is the one responsible for putting me on the right track thanks to her insider knowledge of what to see and more importantly, what to skip. Stop by, say hello and let them know what you’re looking for – they’ll be more than happy to help curate your perfect market day. I spent about a couple of hours just getting lost in the stalls and debating what to buy, but with limited NYC real estate and nothing that made me gasp, I walked away empty-handed.
On the way to Marche Paul Bert, I randomly stopped into SAUL Giraud Art Deco. Now let me start by saying that the owner is NOT very friendly and borderline rude, but if you want to see what might be one of the greatest collections of vintage Chanel jewelery in the world, step inside this wonderland of bijoux. They have pieces dating back to the 1920’s and I was more than ready to skip next month’s rent in order to walk away with something special, but I didn’t.
When you’re walking towards Marche Paul Bert and Serpette, you might be tempted to enter on Rue de Rossiers where the main entrance is, but don’t. Instead, enter on Rue Paul Bert which will put you smack dab in the center of the good stuff. These two markets focus on housewares and furniture and cater to high-end collectors and designers, so the vendors can be a little snooty but don’t take it personally.
I wasn’t in the market for furniture, but you will gain a lifetime of free, jaw-dropping inspiration just by walking around and taking in all of the marvelous and breathtaking finds. Be sure to check out ABC Pascal. I would have taken one of everything in this beautiful and eclectic shop. One day, I’ll return to Marche Paul Bert and buy a piece for my home – that I can promise you!
By now, you’re probably wondering what did she buy…well, I’ve saved the best for last. The crown jewel (pun very intended) of my trip to Paris was Les Merveilles de Babellou. This shop in Paul Bert is a once-in-a-lifetime shopping experience, better yet it’s life-changing. They have vintage clothes, shoes and accessories dating back to the 1900’s alongside couture pieces from Balmain, Alaia, Nina Ricci, and Dior. Think of the shop as a highly-curated collection of the creme de la creme in French fashion. The store is a resource for some of the best stylists in the world, vintage collectors and regular people like me who dream in fashion.
But what sets them apart is the incredible inventory and depth of knowledge they have when it comes to vintage jewelry, specifically Chanel. If you’ve ever dreamed of owning a piece of history from this house, this is the place to find it. Just tell them what style, color and budget you have in mind and in minutes, they have assembled a dozen black velvet boxes spilling with beautiful baubles that makes you question whether this is real life or just a fantasy. I still get goose bumps just thinking about it.
Luckily, this was all very real for me and I walked away with two items I will treasure for the rest of my life. Sometimes it’s not just about the purchase, but about the experience and I’m so grateful for this trip and for this time in one of my favorite places in the world.